The numbers riders ask for most, each one handing off to the full guide.
Most bikes want fresh oil every 6,000–12,000 km (4,000–7,500 miles), or once a year, whichever comes first. Mineral oil sits at the short end of that range, full synthetic at the long end, and the owner's manual overrides both. A bike that covers little distance hits the calendar limit long before the odometer one. The interval guide breaks it down by oil type and use.
Every 500–1,000 km (300–600 miles), and after every wet ride or wash. That covers a sealed O-ring or X-ring chain in normal road use. Dust, rain and winter salt push it to every ride; dry summer tarmac lets you sit at the top of the range. The chain lube guide has the intervals by condition.
Most chain-driven street bikes want 25–35 mm (1.0–1.4 in) of total up-and-down movement, measured midway along the bottom run at the chain's tightest point. Your manual's figure beats that range. Too tight is the expensive mistake: it loads the gearbox output bearing on every bump. Moto Companion carries a four-step DIY checklist for the adjustment and logs it against the odometer when you tick it off.
Whatever the placard on the swingarm, chain guard or frame says — for most street bikes 2.2–2.5 bar (32–36 psi) front and 2.5–2.9 bar (36–42 psi) rear. Check them cold, once a week. The number moulded into the sidewall is the carcass maximum, not a target. The pressure guide covers load, two-up riding and cold checks.
At 2 mm of friction material, and immediately at any metal-on-metal sound. New pads start at roughly 4–5 mm, so 2 mm is well past halfway and wearing faster. Grinding means the disc is being cut — stop riding and have the brakes looked at before the next trip. Reading pads in the caliper shows how to check them in two minutes.
Inspect closely from five years and replace at ten, whatever the tread depth. Rubber hardens with age and wet grip fades before anything looks wrong. The last four digits of the DOT code on the sidewall give week and year — 2318 is week 23 of 2018. Cracking at the groove bases or around the bead means the tyre comes off before the next ride.
Every two years, regardless of distance. DOT 4 absorbs water from the day it goes in; two years typically leaves 2–3% water in the fluid, the boiling point falls, and the lever goes long exactly when the brakes are hot. Moto Companion counts brake fluid down in distance like everything else — nothing in it counts by date, so the two-year clock stays with you.
Every 24,000–40,000 km (15,000–25,000 miles) on most modern bikes, and the manual's figure wins. It is a measuring job first: on a healthy engine checked on time, often nothing needs adjusting. Valves drift tighter with wear rather than looser, and a tight valve burns itself in silence. Valve clearance explained covers the symptoms and the cost.
Standard nickel plugs every 10,000–15,000 km (6,000–9,000 miles); iridium and other precious-metal plugs run to 40,000 km (25,000 miles) and beyond. The manual's figure wins. Plug wear follows distance, not the calendar — a bike parked all winter ages its oil and brake fluid, not its plugs. Read the old plug before it goes in the bin: tan to light brown is healthy, black soot is rich, white and blistered is lean.
Every two to three years or 40,000 km (25,000 miles), whichever comes first. Use an aluminium-safe, silicate-free coolant sold for motorcycles. The interval is a calendar item because the corrosion inhibitors deplete whether you ride or not — old coolant still cools, it just stops protecting. Check the level at the expansion tank cold; a hot system is pressurised and opens with scalding force.
Five things in the same order every time: tyres, controls, lights, chain, leaks. Two minutes, bike stationary. It catches what actually strands riders — a screw picked up overnight, a chain gone dry, a fresh puddle under the engine. A brake lever that reaches the bar is a no-go: the bike stays parked until a professional has looked at it.
Five habits cover most of it: check the tyres weekly, lube the chain every 500–1,000 km (300–600 miles), change the oil on schedule, keep the battery charged, and write down what you do. None of them needs a workshop. Valve checks, suspension and diagnostics can wait until those five are automatic.
Budget $300–1,000 (€280–950) a year for a commuted mid-size bike covering 8,000–12,000 km (5,000–7,500 miles). That is consumables — chain lube, oil, pads — plus one proper service. Doing the routine work yourself roughly halves it, and a year that lands tyres and a chain kit together runs past the top of the range. The cost breakdown goes item by item.
Five jobs: a full tank with stabiliser, the battery on a smart maintainer, the tyres off the cold floor, a wash plus corrosion protectant, and a breathable cover. Change the oil before storage rather than after — used oil carries acids that sit against bearings all winter. Petrol starts degrading within one to three months, and a lead-acid battery left flat sulphates and never fully recovers.